equipment sanitizers, that are marketed under various brand names. They cost more than Campden tablets and cannot be used in the wine itself. Each brand comes with its own directions for use.
I continue to use metabisulphite because I know I understand what’s in it and how it works, though I have used some of the other sanitizers. They work well and are probably easier to use for people who make large amounts of wine.
GLYCERINE
Glycerine is a nonfermentable, nontoxic substance that will give body and a bit of sweetness to a finished wine. In fact, some companies call it Wine Finisher or Wine Conditioner. Use one ounce of food-grade glycerine per gallon. You can buy it at any wine supply store or through the mail. You can also buy it in some drug stores.
COLORING
Most of the time, I don’t color my wine. But now and then one comes up with a “white” wine that needs a little help. It’s best to use a natural winemaking ingredient to give color, like some red fruit or lightly toasted bread. Or, in a pinch, you can decant the wine just before serving and add a drop or two (not very much!) of food coloring or red fruit juice concentrate.
I have colored my mint wine green once or twice just for the effect. It was nice for Saint Patrick’s Day.
CHALK
Chalk is food-grade calcium carbonate. Available at wine supply stores and by mail order, it is used to reduce acid in a wine. Use an acid test kit to determine the acid content of the wine. The wine is racked off into a primary fermenter, and two to six teaspoons is stirred in per gallon. It is stirred every few hours for twenty-four hours, then the wine is racked carefully off the sediment back intoa sanitized secondary fermenter. Two teaspoons reduces the acid 0.1-1.15 percent. Never add more than six teaspoons per gallon.
There are also commercial products available at wine supply stores to reduce acid; these products come with complete instructions.
CHAPTER FIVE
Fresh Fruit Wines
H ere we go, real fruit wines. Remember that I am assuming you have read the previous chapters. Also remember to read the recipe all the way through before starting. There are lots of little details that you won’t want to miss.
Be sure to obtain the best fresh fruits you can for your wine, fruits that are ripe and sound. It’s better to use a little less good fruit than a lot of dubious fruit.
Look for local fruit if you can. It is almost always better than fruit brought in to your area. The less it’s been hauled around, the better. Local fruit is usually cheaper, too.
You can find fruit in many places besides the grocery store. Look for special fruit and vegetable stores, farmers’ markets, roadside stands, and pick-your-own farms, where you can pick your own fresh fruit and pay less than you would in the stores. Your local state or county offices might have a listing of such places. Very useful!
Nonlocal fruits can be quite good, too. If you check out the farmers’ markets or fruit and vegetable stores, you can get some bargains with fruit that is dead ripe and won’t hold for another day or so. Check carefully for mold or rot, especially on the bottom of the case. Be picky. Tell them you want it for wine. This usually catches the sellers’ interest, and they are more likely to make sure you get good fruit.
Sometimes buying by the lug or case is cheaper, though not always. It’s best to know what the going price is for fruits you are interested in. I’ve gotten some good bargains by showing up at the end of the day at the farmers’ market. I’ve also missed some choice fruits that went fast because I wasn’t there earlier. You never know.
Sometimes ethnic grocery stores carry interesting fruits. When I lived in the Mission District in San Francisco, we could buy enormous pieces of sweet papaya by the pound.
Wild fruits are good as long as you aren’t breaking any laws by gathering them or aren’t picking them on private property without permission. Also, be very
I continue to use metabisulphite because I know I understand what’s in it and how it works, though I have used some of the other sanitizers. They work well and are probably easier to use for people who make large amounts of wine.
GLYCERINE
Glycerine is a nonfermentable, nontoxic substance that will give body and a bit of sweetness to a finished wine. In fact, some companies call it Wine Finisher or Wine Conditioner. Use one ounce of food-grade glycerine per gallon. You can buy it at any wine supply store or through the mail. You can also buy it in some drug stores.
COLORING
Most of the time, I don’t color my wine. But now and then one comes up with a “white” wine that needs a little help. It’s best to use a natural winemaking ingredient to give color, like some red fruit or lightly toasted bread. Or, in a pinch, you can decant the wine just before serving and add a drop or two (not very much!) of food coloring or red fruit juice concentrate.
I have colored my mint wine green once or twice just for the effect. It was nice for Saint Patrick’s Day.
CHALK
Chalk is food-grade calcium carbonate. Available at wine supply stores and by mail order, it is used to reduce acid in a wine. Use an acid test kit to determine the acid content of the wine. The wine is racked off into a primary fermenter, and two to six teaspoons is stirred in per gallon. It is stirred every few hours for twenty-four hours, then the wine is racked carefully off the sediment back intoa sanitized secondary fermenter. Two teaspoons reduces the acid 0.1-1.15 percent. Never add more than six teaspoons per gallon.
There are also commercial products available at wine supply stores to reduce acid; these products come with complete instructions.
CHAPTER FIVE
Fresh Fruit Wines
H ere we go, real fruit wines. Remember that I am assuming you have read the previous chapters. Also remember to read the recipe all the way through before starting. There are lots of little details that you won’t want to miss.
Be sure to obtain the best fresh fruits you can for your wine, fruits that are ripe and sound. It’s better to use a little less good fruit than a lot of dubious fruit.
Look for local fruit if you can. It is almost always better than fruit brought in to your area. The less it’s been hauled around, the better. Local fruit is usually cheaper, too.
You can find fruit in many places besides the grocery store. Look for special fruit and vegetable stores, farmers’ markets, roadside stands, and pick-your-own farms, where you can pick your own fresh fruit and pay less than you would in the stores. Your local state or county offices might have a listing of such places. Very useful!
Nonlocal fruits can be quite good, too. If you check out the farmers’ markets or fruit and vegetable stores, you can get some bargains with fruit that is dead ripe and won’t hold for another day or so. Check carefully for mold or rot, especially on the bottom of the case. Be picky. Tell them you want it for wine. This usually catches the sellers’ interest, and they are more likely to make sure you get good fruit.
Sometimes buying by the lug or case is cheaper, though not always. It’s best to know what the going price is for fruits you are interested in. I’ve gotten some good bargains by showing up at the end of the day at the farmers’ market. I’ve also missed some choice fruits that went fast because I wasn’t there earlier. You never know.
Sometimes ethnic grocery stores carry interesting fruits. When I lived in the Mission District in San Francisco, we could buy enormous pieces of sweet papaya by the pound.
Wild fruits are good as long as you aren’t breaking any laws by gathering them or aren’t picking them on private property without permission. Also, be very
Similar Books
